DEER ALERT! Be prepared to protect the trunks of your trees (up to 4 1/2" in diameter) from the Buck Deer and his sparring with tree trucks with his antlers. Trees should be covered with a plastic or strong paper tree trunk covering. They should be placed on your tree trunks in mid-October and removed February 15th to 28th. Do not keep your tree trunks covered year-round - this will cause serious injury to your trees. Tree Guards can be purchased at most garden centers, hardware stores and the box stores. By the way, make sure your three guard is wide enough to let air circulate between it and the trunk!
To not do the above risks serious damage from antlers rubbing the bark off of your trees. Don't make the common mistake "We don't have any deer around here"....They are EVERYWHERE!!

OTHER PESTS to watch out for...

- Ground nesting yellow jackets continue to be pesky around sweet food stuffs. (Just like Denny!) Do not disturb their nest if you locate one...call a professional exterminator. When disturbed, yellow jackets can be quite dangerous.

- Itch mites are still a persistent problem! No one seems to know how much longer they'll be around -- lets hope they're gone SOON!

I was traveling and heard your program for the first time. I did not get the name of the product you said mix in gallon water and pour around roses.

I have a problem with japanese beetles and what makes black spots on the leaves and then they turn yellow and fall off?

Thank you for your time.

Betty

Betty,

The beetles are not causing the black spots. The black spots are a disease simply called Black Spot. It can be controlled with product called Triple Action Plus. It is made by the Fertilome Company. The beetles and other insects can be controlled by applying an insecticide called Systemic Soil Drench, also a Fertilome product. This product only needs to be applied once a year.

 

In a forest, trees are constantly helping to create their own great soil and mulch through their annual leaf drop. Leaves that fell a few years ago are now decomposed into rich topsoil with the freshly fallen leaves acting as mulch. This is a trees natural environment that creates a healthy fibrous root system that gathers water and natural nutrients necessary for good tree health. Now enter the lawn. Thick grass is a healthy tree’s biggest competitor for moisture and natural nutrients. Fall leaves are removed as to not smother the grass. Herbicides are applied annually to control lawn weeds. Many trees are planted in new subdivisions that have had the topsoil removed and the clay is a plenty. Trees growing under theses conditions grow under constant stress that can drastically reduce the longevity of your trees. Since homes need both trees and lawns, what’s the best way to make these two more compatible? By a process referred to as vertical mulching, a time tested method of overcoming the stresses trees face in the unnatural environment most trees grow under. It creates columns of rich “top soil” down past the grass roots and into the soil area where roots can take advantage of them. Several years after vertical mulching, a careful examination of one of the columns would show thousands of new feeder roots flourishing there. Vertical mulching also provides the perfect opportunity to fertilize your trees. Many trees, especially oaks and maples, have been brought back from the brink of death from proper vertical mulching. Do not expect instant results. Trees slowly go into decline and slowly return to health after vertical mulching. It might be two years or more before the foliage thickens and the tree gets its rich leaf color back.

What is Vertical Mulching?

Vertical mulching is the process of making many holes in the soil of the root zone of a particular tree with the purpose of creating many entryways for air, moisture, and nutrients to reach the roots of a given tree. This process improves the overall health and vigor of any tree. To properly vertical mulch, you will need an electric or gasoline powered drill and a 2 to 3” diameter auger. This equipment is available from any tool rental.

Starting 8 ft. away from the trunk (no feeder roots there) drill holes on 3 ft. centers 15” deep in all directions. Discard the soil that is removed from the hole. The holes should cover at least the area shaded by your tree at high noon. Feeder roots actually grow a minimum of 25% beyond this area. If this area includes your neighbor’s yard get permission to drill on their property.
Back fill the holes half way with a mixture of 50% peat moss and 50% course sand or use straight pea gravel. Measure the diameter of the tree at chest height. You want to apply 2 lbs. of 10-10-10 or 10-6-4 fertilizer for every inch of tree diameter. Distribute this fertilizer evenly in the holes you’ve drilled. Then continue to back fill until the holes are filled. Late fall is the best time to vertical mulch with early spring 2nd. But anytime of the year you do it will have your tree (trees) saying thanks.

Word of Caution

Be careful where you drill if you have an underground sprinkler system. In Ohio, also call the Ohio utilities protection services (1-800-362-2764) to mark any other underground systems. There is no charge for this service.

 Denny,

We have apple and pear tree's and in the last two years the blue jay's have knotted off all of the apples and pears. Last weekend we put up tin pans in the tree's but I don't know if that's really working. Is there anything we can do? The trees are too big to put nets on.

Thank you
Mary Lou Stacey

Mary Lou,

The only option you have for keeping the Blue Jay's off of your fruit trees is netting. There is netting made specifically for keeping birds off of trees. It is simply called bird netting and should be available at a hardware store.

August is the best month to start your fall lawn renovation. You start by killing your existing lawn! This month, follow these do's and don'ts....

- Don't rototill the soil. This process causes the soil to settle unevenly, wakes up thousands of weed seeds that will compete with the new grass (and it's alot of unnecessary work!)

- Don't apply topsoil to overall area unless you spread it to a depth of 4 to 6 inches to entire area. Use topsoil to fill in any low areas. Settle the new topsoil with irrigation or rain before putting down your seed. Re-loosen the top soil with a steel rake to break up the crust. Then put down your seed.

- Don't even read any further unless you can keep new seed dampened down daily 'till germination (assuming no rain on a given day.) Try the winter seed method if this seems like too much trouble.

- DO kill all existing vegetation in area to be reseeded. Weeds and other vegetation should be watered well prior to application of herbicide. Healthy weeds die faster. In the fall, allow 3 to 4 weeks to retreat some weeds that regrow after initial treatment. Old lawn should be between 2 to 3 inches tall when treating, especially true with nut grass. Great vegetation killers that are safe to use are Round-Up and Finale

- DO rent a seed slitter or verti-slicer. Set the blade to cut a one half inch slit. Run the machine east to west and north to south (checker board). Most machines come with a seed box. If so, set the seeder to drop 4/5 seeds per inch of soil. For Turf Fescue and Turf Rye, make another couple of passes northeast to southwest and southeast to northwest.

- DO freeze your seed overnight. It can even stay frozen until you're ready to apply. Do now before you forget.

- DO fertilize with a starter type fertilizer. Do not mix seed and fertilizer together in the same applicator hopper. Apply fertilizer first.

- DO lightly water grass seed daily (assuming rainless days) to keep seed moist until germination. Then water once weekly the equivalent of one inch of water and/or rain. Continue to water as above during dry and hot weather.

- DO mow your grass as soon as it reaches 2 1/4 inches. Mow at 2 inches and mow often. The more cuttings, the quicker the new grass matures. You will get a few new weeds. Do not apply weed killer till you've given the new grass three cuttings. Raise the mower one half inch after three cuttings.

- DO use good grass seed. If you're going to do all the above steps, don't mess everything up with so-called bargain seeds. Check the seed label for purity, weed seed content and inert ingredients.

Spot seeding bare spots in your yard:

1. Take a steel rake and loosen soil.

2. Apply seed with applicator or by hand at the rate of 4/5 seeds per inch (freeze grass seed overnight for faster germination.) Not necessary for winter seeding.

3. Dampen down daily until seed germinates (a light application of straw is optional.)

5. Mow as soon as the new grass reaches 2 1/4 inches or more. Cut to a height of 2 inches. Raise mower one half inch after four cuttings of new grass.

I have a purple butterfly bush. Should I clip of the ends, the flowerless couple of inches? Will this encourage growth? Or if I cut the plant back a foot (they are about 3 feet) will they continue to bloom or maybe bloom more?  Thank you ... I  Appreciate your knowledge and help!

Yes, trimming off the old flowers will encourage the Butterfly Bush to produce even more flowers than it had before. Butterfly Bushes bloom on new growth. Pruning encourages more growth which means more flowers.

Remember, this year is NOT last year. 
Make sure to check your soil for moisture before assuming your plants are dry.

Overwatering creates a serious health problem for your plants. Here are three ways to tell if your grass needs watering:

1.    The grass wilts, acquires a bluish tinge, and the edges of the blades start to curl or fold.
2.    The soil is hard and resists insertion of a trowel or screwdriver.
3.    Footprints where grass has been crushed from walking on it remain for several hours.

Remember, brown tips do not indicate drought stress. They can be the result of a dull mower blade, which frays the tips. Sharpen your blade!